The History Channel in Asia are about to do a programme about the infamous Thai-Burma Railway. This particular period in history holds a lot of interest for me as both my parents lived and fought in the RAF for the UK in WWII.With this in mind and with the approach of Remembrance Day in the UK I thought I would write a few articles about the history of the area and my personal experiences when visiting Kanchanaburi. Sadly in my opinion there is little to record the terrible sacrifices made by allied prisoners here in Thailand and Burma.
Also locally despite Thailand's somewhat dubious involvement with the Japanese it should not be forgotten that thousands of Thais were forced to work alongside the prisoners as virtual slaves.
When I first visited Thailand back in 2000 I organised a trip from Bangkok to see the "Bridge on the River Kwai" made famous by the film of the same name. At that time my knowledge about what really happened here was limited.
As the bridge is often the feature that attracts tourists , especially those who do not have loved ones buried in the nearby war cemetery, I guess that this is a good place to start
Of course the bridge that you visit near Kanchanaburi, although constructed by Allied prisoners and Asian forced labour, is not the bridge featured in the film, the film was actually shot in Sri Lanka and the plot loosely fits in with real life events.
Interestingly the bridge does not span the River Kwai, since there is actually no such river, on a modern map of the area there are the rivers, Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai which merge together at Kanchanaburi to form the Mae Khlong River. However the Kwai Noi & Yai were renamed as such in the 1960's, some say as a result of the increasing tourist interest in the area following the release of the film. The current bridge spans the Kwai Yai to the North of the town at Tha Ma Kham.
When the railway reached the river in 1943 two bridges were built, initially a temporary wooden bridge, followed some months later by a steel and concrete structure running alongside.
In the film plot the fictional leader of the prisoners, Col Nicholson, becomes obsessed with completing the bridge, however this is a long way from the truth.
It is a fact that the prisoner's did their utmost to delay the building of the structure, introducing such things as white ants to the wooden parts (the ants eat wood) and making weak mixes of concrete for the supports.
The bridge was open to rail traffic for two years before it was successfully bombed by the Allies towards the end of the war, however much of what you see today is original. Some of the rounded metal spans were added later, ironically paid for by the Japanese as war reparation.
Nowadays one can walk across the bridge or ride on the train (3 times a day), walking over the river is not for the faint hearted as there is no guard rail and there are gaps in the deck cladding.
Of course the bridge itself is just one of the many historical attractions in the area and in later articles I will focus on, Hell Fire Pass,visiting by train, museums and the war cemetery.

4 comments:
When living in Singapore my father visited us and we went to the British army cemetery. He was looking for two names but didn't find them.
He had been on a staff course at the beginning of World War II with two friends. He got posted to N. Africa and they delighted in a cushier posting to Singapore.
They died as slave labour on the "Burma railway'.
Had my father's fate been otherwise, I would not now be writing on your blog.
I first visited Kanchanaburi thirty years ago and have been back several times since. The war graves are a sobering experience and I fear that younger generations, George Bush included have forgotten the sorrow of war.
Many Thais I find do not know who Hitler was.
I too found the war graves a sobering experience, which I intend to include in a future article. Its such a pity that men like your father had to die because of war and certainly not in such circumstances.
I too think local historians certainly suffer from tunnel vision regarding some things that happened in the past. Interestingly I live very close to where the Japanese landed in Thailand (Ao Manoa) but thats another story, it just depends who is telling it as to what really happened.
I watched the movie "To End All Wars" the other day- I don't know if this is the one you reference or an earlier version. It was spectacular. My uncle, being in the Bataan death march, to the day he died in the late 90's still had PTSD and could barely speak of it without crying.
The builders of this railroad and the way they fought it is spectacular.
Hi Tony, nice to see you. I am not sure about the film you mention, The Bridge on the River Kwai was made in the 60's. That period of the war left a lot of "casualties" who survived the horrors but found it hard to adjust afterwards.
Glad your Uncle made it into his 90's though.
Mike
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